Slightly larger than West Virginia, Australia’s smallest state feels lightyears away from the frenzied pace of big cities. Shaped when Australia split from Antarctica 70 million years ago, then fully set adrift around 11,000 years ago, Tasmania is an island of preserved landscapes, unusual wildlife and wonderfully wild adventures. It’s an island of dramatic landscapes molded by the Roaring Forties. The powerful westerly winds, between 40- and 50-degrees south latitude in the Southern Hemisphere, are some of the strongest sustained winds on the planet.
What makes Tasmania so compelling is a sense of discovery, especially for North American travelers. It’s a destination where colonial architecture meets contemporary design, where wildlife rescue is a calling rather than a slogan, and where dark skies, wild wines and spirits are part of everyday life. Over several days my travels in Tasmania were based in Hobart, and I felt like I was discovering Australia’s best-kept secret. Tasmania balances colonial history, creative energy, and incredible food and drinks with some of the best stargazing and hiking in the Southern Hemisphere.
Hobart: Stay in a “Country City”
Founded as one of Australia’s two convict colonies (the other is Sydney), Hobart is compact, walkable and layered with history. Shortly after arriving, several locals called Hobart a “country city,” referring to the friendly nature of its inhabitants. It also runs at a slower pace than many other cities of its size. The people have a Southern friendliness, reminding me of my hometown in South Carolina, yet Hobart’s backdrop of rugged mountains gives it a dramatic edge.
My home base was The Tasman, a luxury hotel that’s a masterclass in adaptive reuse. Spread across three eras of architecture, The Tasman blends Hobart’s past with modern luxury in an unpretentious fashion. I stayed in a spacious suite in the Heritage wing, where thick sandstone walls have been a part of the complex since the 1800s. The suite’s high ceilings, generous size and thoughtful design details make it feel more like a private apartment than a hotel. On the main floor, the Deco Lounge is a nod to the building’s time as a printing office, while the contemporary Pavilion adds a modern edge. A new spa is also on the way, adding another reason to stay a little longer.
Walkabouts in the City: Eateries, Shops and Sips
Hobart rewards wandering. I didn’t have to go far from The Tasman for my first stop. Daci & Daci Bakers is a delightful artisanal patisserie and coffee house. As I sipped a latte and noshed on a spinach and three cheese burek, my palate perked up in my first bites of Hobart’s unexpected culinary scene.
My friend Scott and I spent our first afternoon meandering along the waterfront, and we found our way to Salamanca Art Centre. We spent a couple of hours perusing the galleries, artists’ studios, artisan shops, boutiques, outdoor gear shops, and theaters filling the historic sandstone warehouses. Hobart’s art scene was another pleasant surprise.
Tasmania’s reputation for spirits is well-earned. In 1839, distilling of spirits was outlawed on the island and the ban remained in place for more than 150 years. In 1992, Hobart surveyor Bill Lark succeeded in overturning prohibition. Today, there are more than 80 distilleries. Our first sips were at Lark Cellar Door, the birthplace of the modern Tasmanian whisky movement and one of several tasting rooms in Hobart. I ordered a Peach Pash made with Lark classic cask whisky. With a stream of black sesame seeds decorating the side of the flute, the light and refreshing cocktail was almost too stunning to sip. It beautifully complemented Tasmanian oysters dressed in Forty Spotted Gin, mignonette sauce and sumac oil. Briny, clean, and beautifully shaped, the oysters paired with local spirits capture the essence of eating here, letting the ingredients speak for themselves.
This town takes its coffee seriously and Hobart Coffee Roasters is a favorite of locals. If you’re craving something familiar, Gigi’s Diner in Battery Point serves nostalgic American-style breakfast or brunch with laid-back charm. It’s one of Hobart’s newest eateries.
Sip sparkling wine at Rosie in My Midnight Dreams, then peruse the artisan stalls in Brooke Street Market. For a quick, fresh seafood bite with harbor views, Fish Frenzy is the spot. Irish pubs are all over the world, and Hobart is no exception. New Sydney Hotel, established in 1835, is home to “the best little pub in town.” We went late on a Friday afternoon, and it was packed with locals. If you’re in town on a Friday or weekend, chances are you’ll stumble into a festival or food truck gathering like we did.
My favorite dining experience was at Peppina in The Tasman hotel. Ravished after a full day hike, we couldn’t wait to enjoy the fresh flavors of this Italian restaurant with a Tasmanian twist. The freshly shucked oysters are exceptional, but my favorite is the unexpected combination of baked scallops with almond butter, parsley and chili crumbs served on a half shell. They are absolutely divine.
Stargazing Under Southern Skies
Later that evening, Hobart’s story shifted from land and sea to sky. We went on a private stargazing tour with Ben Wilkinson, owner of Tasmanian Photography Tours. Ben’s tours center on slow travel, Tasmania’s remote wilderness, and deep local knowledge of experiences that connect people to Tasmania’s landscapes from jagged sea cliffs to the star-filled night sky.
At Mount Pleasant Observatory, less than 30 minutes from Hobart, we were joined by astrophotographer Lisa Bromfield. Lisa has a gift for making astronomy approachable, weaving science with storytelling as she introduces visitors to the Southern Hemisphere sky. Tasmania’s dark skies reveal constellations invisible in the north, Aurora Australis (southern lights), and even distant galaxies visible to the naked eye.
We saw the brilliant star Canopus before the clouds rolled in, but Lisa’s perspective stayed with me. “Stargazing,” she said, “is like fishing. You need patience, curiosity and a willingness to accept what the night and weather give you.” In a world obsessed with instant gratification, it’s a refreshing reminder to simply look up, enjoy and wait.
Wildlife Sanctuary: More Than Rescues
The next morning brought one of Tasmania’s most meaningful experiences. Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary is a leader in wildlife rescues, rehabilitation and conservation. It’s a working wildlife rescue responding to nearly 20,000 calls a year, often responding to wildlife that has been injured on the roads.
A highlight of our visit was seeing Bonorong’s new wildlife care center. It’s a purpose-built facility where veterinarians and techs work around the clock to stabilize, treat and rehabilitate animals with the goal of returning them to the wild. Patients in care while we were there ranged from an eastern barred bandicoot and a masked lapwing to several blue-tongue lizards.
While traveling in Tasmania, I wanted to see a Tasmanian devil. Primarily nocturnal, they are difficult to see in the wild. At Bonorong, you have the chance to see the world’s largest carnivorous marsupial, known for its bone-crushing bite. I quietly marveled as I watched from a distance as two Tasmanian devils sniffed the air, and their ears changed from pinkish to reddish. Both gave me a wide yawn, displaying the strength of their jaws.
During the wombat encounter, I learned that around the age of two, wombats turn into hormonal teenagers. When that happens, the rescued orphaned wombats, like Popcorn, whom I met, are ready to be released into the wild. As Popcorn scurried around, animal keeper Aimee shared some fun facts, like that wombats are the only animals that poop in cubes and the plate on their rump is as strong as steel. I did get to give Popcorn a few ear scratches for an extra special encounter.
Coal River Valley: Quiet Confidence in a Glass
Just outside of Hobart, the Coal River Valley showcases Tasmania’s growing reputation for cool-climate wines. It’s renowned for producing high-quality Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Family-owned, boutique producers dominate here with tastings that are more personal than commercial.
While in the Cellar Door at Caledon Estate Vineyard, owner James Stewart told us his story of returning to where he grew up and how turning sheep pastureland into rows of vines planted on shallow sandstone felt less like a business decision and more of a homecoming for his family. It’s a common story in Tasmania, where many winery owners are first-generation producers guided by curiosity rather than convention.
A later tasting at Stargazer reinforced the valley’s quiet confidence. Vintage postcard labels, experimental blends and a multi-award-winning female winemaker add to the prestige of a valley that doesn’t need to shout to be noticed.
Richmond: Tasmania’s Past Preserved
Between wine tastings, Richmond is a historic village known for its Georgian architecture and offers a glimpse into colonial Australia. The Richmond Bridge, built by convicts and completed in 1825, once formed part of the route to Port Arthur. St. John’s Catholic Church, completed in 1835, is the oldest catholic church in Australia. Richmond is also home to Australia’s oldest intact jail. The Richmond Gaol was built in 1825.
Today, Richmond is a delightful town with coffeehouses and artist cooperatives anchored by the historic Richmond Arms Hotel and its Saloon Bar. We opted for mid-afternoon cappuccinos in the garden at Czegs’ Café for a delightful stop.
Deep into the Wild: Mount Field National Park
My travels in Tasmania included a visit to Mount Field National Park, one of Tasmania’s oldest protected areas. It showcases the island’s extraordinary diversity from rainforest and waterfalls to alpine lakes and rugged ridgelines. A wallaby sighting kicked off our hike as we pulled into the trailhead parking area. Walking with our guide, Lochy with Tasmanian Wilderness Experiences, the route was more than just a hike. It’s journeying into Tasmania’s quieter, wilder world.
Starting near Lake Dobson, the trail quickly climbs through an eucalyptus and alpine gum forest before opening up to the Tarn Shelf, a high, glacial plateau dotted with a chain of small lakes and ponds geologically known as tarns. These shallow, crystal-clear pools were carved by ancient ice. As the wind blows, they go from mirroring the sky to rippling silver. When glassy-calm, the symphony of frogs adds to the serene beauty. Each tarn feels slightly different, with some ringed with low alpine vegetation and others tucked between rocky outcrops. It’s a landscape that’s both delicate and dramatic.
My favorite part of the trail is the narrow boardwalks Aussies called duckboards, hovering above the delicate terrain. The ridgeline portion alternates between boardwalks, rocky sections and short scrambles with sweeping views over Lake Seal and surrounding peaks. Along the way, fire-scarred pencil pines stand like ghostly sentinels, adding to the ever-changing path. The quiet is broken only by birds, frogs and the occasional rustle of wildlife, including the two snakes we saw.
At roughly 17 kilometers (10.5 miles), it’s a full but rewarding day made extra special with Lochy sharing his deep knowledge of the region and his over-the-top picnic lunch at picturesque Lake Newdegate, complete with dipping my feet into the icy-cold water.
To finish our time in Mount Field, we did a short bonus hike to Russell Falls. With its cool mist and cascading tiers, it was a refreshing contrast to the alpine terrain we had just walked. This hike captures Tasmania in a single day — ancient, untamed and quietly unforgettable.
Why Tasmania Still Feels Undiscovered
Tasmania, or Tassie as the locals call it, doesn’t try to impress. Its elegance is quiet, its adventures earned, and its stories deeply rooted in a fascinating history. From rugged hiking and dark skies to wildlife rescue and wild wines, this island offers something increasingly rare: authentic escape without overtourism.
Tasmania was standout on my trip to Australia. Rarely do I leave a place in the adage of “leaving kicking and screaming,” but here I did as I wished for more time to explore the island and meet more of the locals calling Tassie home. Old in soul, rich in character and refreshingly under the radar, Tasmania’s adventurous spirit makes it the kind of place that quietly beckons for a longer return visit.
