Livraria Bertrand

The basics

After a range of disruptions, including the 1755 earthquake that razed much of Lisbon, Bertrand moved to its current location in 1773. An editor and publisher and a bookstore, it quickly became a post for local literati, including the 18th-century poet Bocage, Portugal’s answer to Lord Byron, and the historian, poet, and novelist Alexandre Herculano. Today, even Café Bertrand has a literary bent, with its proudly Portuguese menu inspired by recipe books and other texts, all of which can be bought.

It’s easy to stop by the store or the café independently: While most books are in Portuguese, one room has an excellent English-language selection. Many Chiado walking tours, literary Lisbon tours, and Lisbon history tours visit Bertrand.

Things to know before you go

• Livraria Bertrand is a great choice for bibliophiles, history buffs, and foodies alike.
• You can get your purchases stamped with a sign showing you bought them at the world’s oldest bookstore. It’s available in several languages.
• The building is atmospheric, but it’s nowhere near as photogenic as Porto’s Livraria Lello, so don’t worry about Instagram lines.
• The bookstore is bigger than it looks from the outside. If you speak Portuguese, you can spend several hours browsing.

How to get there

Livraria Bertrand and Café Bertrand are in the heart of Chiado, a 5-minute walk from the Santa Justa Lift (Elevador de Santa Justa). The bookstore is a stone’s throw from the Baixa-Chiado metro station (Blue and Green lines). Take the exit marked Largo do Chiado.

When to get there

Livraria Bertrand Chiado and Café Bertrand are open 9am–10pm seven days a week. The bookshop is quietest soon after opening or shortly before closing, although it’s rarely unpleasantly packed. If you visit during the day on Saturday, you can shop for secondhand books at the Antique Book Fair in Rua Anchieta, beside the store.

Exploring literary Lisbon

Fans of Portuguese literature will find plenty to love in Lisbon. Belém’s monuments provide the perfect framework to rediscover Luís de Camões’ The Lusiads. Fans of Fernando Pessoa can visit the poet’s favorite eatery, Cafe Martinho Da Arcada, or tour Casa Fernando Pessoa, the house where he spent his last 15 years. The José Saramago Foundation makes a great entry point to the world and works of Nobel Prize-winning novelist José Saramago.