Kbal Spean

The basics

An archeological site that follows a natural riverbed, Kbal Spean is also known as the River of a Thousand Lingas, a reference to the phallic carvings found in the art here. The carvings are accessible on a 1.25-mile (2-kilometer) walk through the forest that ends at a small waterfall. Kbal Spean extends into Phnom Kulen National Park but it’s considered part of the Angkor Temple Complex and you’ll need tickets to access the site.

Things to know before you go

• Bring sturdy walking shoes for the trail, which can be muddy after rain.
• While tuk tuk drivers will gladly shuttle you to Kbal Spean, many travelers find it's a more comfortable trip in an enclosed car or tour vehicle.
• Since Banteay Srei is on the road to Kbal Spean, combining the sites saves both time and money.

How to get there

Kbal Spean is located on Route 67, 30 miles (48 kilometers) north of Siem Reap; it’s directly adjacent to Phnom Kulen National Park. To get here, join a tour or hire a driver for the day. Many travelers combine a visit to Kbal Spean with Banteay Srei, Phnom Kulen National Park, and the Angkor Centre for the Conservation of Biodiversity. When hiring a taxi or tuk tuk, be sure to negotiate the time you’ll have at each stop.

When to get there

While hours vary, drivers and guides generally have up-to-date information. Note that the entrance to the trail is cut off around 3.30 pm, before the site itself closes. During the rainy season (May through November), carvings may be partially obscured; dry weather exposes all the carvings but can reduce the pretty stream to a trickle. For the best water levels, visit between July and November.

Where to Eat and Drink Near Kbal Spean

Just down the hill from the entrance to Kbal Spean is a cluster of food stalls and even a small restaurant, which make a great stop on your way to the archeological site. It’s worth bringing a bottle of water with you for the hike, since there’s nowhere to buy drinks once you leave the trailhead.

Is visiting Kbal Spean worth it?

Yes, it is worth visiting Kbal Spean (also known as the River of a Thousand Lingas), a unique site that pairs archeology and natural beauty. The stone riverbed is carved with countless ancient phallic symbols and Hindu deities, making it a striking attraction in Cambodia’s Phnom Kulen National Park.

How hard is the hike to Kbal Spean?

The hike to Kbal Spean is a moderately challenging walk suitable for most visitors, about 1.25 miles (2 kilometers) in length from the trailhead. The uphill jungle path can be slippery during the rainy season, making the route more difficult if you aren’t wearing sturdy shoes or boots.

What is the best time of year to visit Kbal Spean?

The best time of year to visit Kbal Spean is between July and November, when the river’s low water level makes the carvings visible. During the rainy season from May to July, the high water covers the decorated riverbed, and between November and May the river often runs dry.

Do you need a ticket to visit Kbal Spean?

Yes, Kbal Spean is part of the Angkor Archaeological Park and included in the Angkor Pass. A one-day pass costs $USD37 and also covers Angkor Wat and other ancient temples. The Angkor Ticket Office (Angkor Enterprise) is located just outside Siem Reap and accepts cash or credit cards.

What does Kbal Spean mean?

Kbal Spean often is called the “River of a Thousand Lingas,” so named for the phallic symbols carved into its riverbed. However, the name can more accurately be translated as “bridgehead,” a reference to the natural stone bridge located nearby that also is decorated with elaborate ancient carvings.

Is Angkor Wat or Kbal Spean better?

It depends on your interests. Angkor Wat and Kbal Spean are ancient sites that offer different experiences. Angkor Wat is a vast complex of temples and one of the most famous (and crowded) sites in Cambodia. Kbal Spean is a small, quiet attraction surrounded by lush flora and fewer visitors.