Kandal Market (Phsar Kandal)

The basics

Entire countries are often reflected in their markets, and Kandal is undoubtedly a microcosm of Cambodia. Come here for a slice of daily life—don’t expect hordes of tourists, English-speaking vendors, or English signs. This spot is as local as it gets.

As you walk in, note your surroundings to reduce your odds of getting lost. You’ll soon be wandering stall after stall of sometimes-unrecognizable fruit—don’t be shy and ask for a sample—fresh veggies, piping-hot Cambodian delicacies (look to the market’s western side for cheap-but-tasty street fare, like noodles and rotisserie chicken), still-alive fish, clothing and accessories, and the occasional hair salon or manicure spot.

Things to know before you go

• The market is open every day, from morning to evening.

• The ground can be a little wet and muddy. Don’t wear your best shoes.

• Come early in the morning or around dinnertime for the best people-watching.

How to get there

Kandal Market (Psar Kandal) is located on Street 13, aka Preah Ang Eng, in Phsar Kandal 1 Commune, Phnom Penh. It’s within walking distance of the Royal Palace, Central Market, and just two blocks from Sisowath Riverside Park. Once in the city, you can get there via car, taxi, tuk-tuk, or your own two feet.

When to get there

If you enjoy people-watching and come armed with a camera, your best bet is to visit early in the morning, when locals are busy stocking up for the day—and when the beautiful displays of colorful produce and locally made goods are essentially still untouched. If you’re looking for a good, cheap dinner, come after 6pm to chow down on Cambodian/Thai noodles, steamed veggies, and smoked meats.

Let’s get smelly

If you’ve never visited a typical Southeast Asian market, know that it’s a sensory extravaganza—from the textures of strange fruit to the calls of busy vendors to the odors of bleeding fish and cages of alive frogs. This is to say, if you’re sensitive to specific sights or smells, maybe stick to the grocery store.