Wild West history meets outdoor adventure in Cody, Wyoming, a town founded by William F. “Buffalo Bill” Cody in 1896.
Cody is the gateway to the east entrance of Yellowstone National Park. For an authentic Western experience with a plethora of jaw-dropping landscapes and abundant wildlife, Cody is an affordable and family-friendly destination near one of America’s most visited national parks.
Grab your boots and hat! From wild trail rides to spectacular scenic drives, here’s why you should giddy up to Wyoming’s wildest town.
Start with History Lessons
One of the biggest surprises in Cody is the Buffalo Bill Center of West. The Smithsonian affiliate is home to five world-class museums under one roof.
Start in the Buffalo Bill Museum. At one point he was arguably the most well-known American and to this day, is an iconic figure of the American West. This museum is filled with artifacts from his life including a scouting outfit, some of his showman outfits and his private tent. There are also possessions from Sitting Bull, Pawnee Bill and Annie Oakley.
My favorite artifact in Buffalo Bill Center of the West is the Nez Perce Buffalo Hide Tipi circa 1850 in the Plains Indian Museum. The stunning tipi is made from 14 to 16 buffalo hides and decorated with red handprints and circles.
In the Draper Natural History Museum, you start in the alpine environment of Greater Yellowstone above 10,000 feet in elevation and walk down the multi-story circular Alpine-to-Plains Trail to the Plains/Basin environments below 5,000 feet in elevation. It’s a neat way to experience different ecosystems and see what animals live at different elevations.
The Cody Firearms Museum has over 10,000 artifacts spanning 800 years of firearms history including in the West and military use. The Whitney Western Art Museum houses beautiful paintings and sculptures in its fine art collection.
Outside, try to catch a raptor show offered twice daily in summer and check out Buffalo Bill’s boyhood home. It’s typical of what was on the agricultural frontier. Your ticket for Buffalo Bill Center of the West is good for 2 days.
For a living history lesson, step back in time to an 1890s frontier settlement at Old Trail Town. It’s on the original site of Cody City. There are 27 historic buildings moved from their original locations in Wyoming and Montana and preserved in Old Trail Town. You can go inside most of the cabins and buildings including the 1883 Hole in the Wall cabin that was the rendezvous spot for Butch Cassidy, the Sundance Kid and other outlaws.
My imagination ran wild while I was in the cabin as I envisioned them plotting their next heist. I also really liked Rivers Saloon. Built in 1888 west of present-day Meeteetse, it’s the oldest remaining saloon in northwest Wyoming. Look for the bullet holes in the door of this saloon frequented by cowboys, outlaws, miners and other colorful characters. Old Trail Town is open daily from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. from May 15 to September 30.
It's easy to combine Old Trail Town with dinner and the rodeo for a fun evening. I suggest going to Old Trail Town in the late afternoon and then having dinner at the Cody Cattle Company. The dinner show is foot-stomping, handclapping and singalong fun as the Triple C Cowboys belt out western music classics as you dine on an all-you-can-eat chuckwagon dinner.
Afterward, walk over to Stampede Park to experience why Cody is the “Rodeo Capital of the World.” Cody’s rodeo history started with Buffalo Bill and his Wild West Show. It’s the only town in the country with a summertime nightly rodeo performance. Cody Nite Rodeo started in 1934 and happens every night from June 1st through August 31st. The Cody Stampede Rodeo started in 1919 around July 4th weekend. Cheer on the cowboys and cowgirls as they compete in events from saddle bronc to barrel racing. If you don’t want to drive from downtown Cody, take the Rodeo Bus.
Another fun dinner with history is the Chuckwagon Dinner on the grounds at Buffalo Bill Center of the West offered Tuesdays and Saturdays from June through August. You’ll chow down on seriously good grub during this unique dining experience. Rich with 2 Mules Chuckwagon makes a mean blackberry cobbler. Save some room for it as you chow down on sourdough biscuits, beans and steak all cooked over an open fire.
Take a Scenic Byway to Spend a Day in Yellowstone
Yellowstone National Park is likely on your itinerary during a stay in Cody. Get up early and head north to Chief Joseph Scenic Byway. Listen to Travel Story along this beautiful 47-mile drive to learn the history of Chief Joseph and the Nez Perce as they fled the U.S. Cavalry in the 1870s.
This picturesque area of the Absaroka Mountains formed from a volcanic explosion. Make stops at the summit of Dead Indian Pass and Sunlight Bridge. This byway connects to Beartooth Scenic Byway which will take you to the northeast entrance of Yellowstone. Covering 2.2 million acres, Yellowstone National Park is massive.
Here’s my itinerary to see as much as possible of Yellowstone in a day:
- Starting at the northeast entrance, you will drive through Lamar Valley. It is the best area to spot wildlife like bison, coyotes, elk, pronghorn and even possibly a grizzly bear or wolf. Next, take a short detour to see the 132-foot Tower Falls before continuing to Mammoth Hot Springs. At these travertine terraces, you’ll want to spend at least 45-60 minutes walking the boardwalks through steaming hydrothermal features.
- From there, head south towards Old Faithful making several stops along the way. Fountain Paint Pot Trail in the Lower Geyser Basin is one of my favorites because of the bubbling and spewing pots going off erratically along with Fountain Geyser putting on a steamy show. You’ll want 30-45 minutes here and there’s a good chance you’ll see bison in the distance.
- Grand Prismatic is worth a stop, especially if you’re willing to do the 1.5-mile roundtrip hike up to the overlook for another 45–60 minute stop. Old Faithful is Yellowstone’s most reliable geyser. It’s not the biggest, however. That’s Steamboat Geyser in Norris Geyser Basin. Plan an hour for your Old Faithful stop. After watching Old Faithful erupt, keep following the loop and if you have time, West Thumb Geyser Basin is an interesting stop along the shoreline of Yellowstone Lake.
- Make a quick stop at Mud Volcano to hear the rumbling sounds of Dragons Mouth Spring, then keep an eye out for wildlife in Hayden Valley on your way to Artist Point for the best view of Lower Falls. The crowd will be less in the late afternoon or early evening for a 30-minute stop. You’ll have to backtrack a little back from Artist Point to Yellowstone Lake, the largest high-elevation (above 7,000) lake in North America. Enjoy the drive as the road hugs the shoreline. There are some wonderful overlooks along Yellowstone Lake and on the drive to Yellowstone’s east entrance as you head back to Cody.
Go on a Drive and Ride in North Fork Valley
Theodore Roosevelt described the road from Cody to Yellowstone as “50 miles of the most scenic land in America.” Keep an eye out for deer, elk, bighorn sheep and even the occasional bear as you drive along the stunning North Fork Highway.
I suggest spending a morning on a trail ride at Absaroka Mountain Lodge. As I was riding my horse Dolly, I felt like I was on a Western movie set as we rode through the pines and crossed the creek several times while surrounded by jagged peaks and sunlit rock palisades. You can stay in one of their cabins or enjoy a trail ride as a day visitor.
After your ride, it’s less than ten minutes to Pahaska Tepee Lodge for a hearty lunch. Buffalo Bill’s original 1904 hunting lodge is on the grounds of Pahaska. It’s a two-story log lodge listed on the National Historic Register. Pahaska has several types of accommodations from A-frame cabins to larger cabins for family reunions if you want to stay close to the east entrance of Yellowstone National Park.
On your way back to Cody, stop at Buffalo Bill Dam. At 325 feet high, it was the highest dam in the world when it was completed in 1910. It was also one of the first concrete arch dams in the United States. It’s free to visit this engineering marvel listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Go on a Wet and Wild Ride
The scenic Shoshone River flows through Cody and Buffalo Bill Reservoir in Buffalo Bill State Park just a few minutes from town, where there are ample areas to go fishing, paddling and boating. For a wet and wild ride, go on a rafting excursion in the Shoshone River Canyon with Wyoming River Trips, a second-generation family-owned river rafting outfitter. Our two guides Brian and Dillon were personable and knowledgeable. With the swift water and a little afternoon rain, my group laughed the whole time during our two-hour rafting trip that went from mellow to short spurts of rapids that had us hooting and hollering as the water splashed us. Combine an afternoon rafting trip with a morning trail ride for a fun-filled day. If you are game for a more advanced whitewater adventure, Wyoming River Trips has full-day trips as well.
Get Dirty on an ATV Adventure
To rev up the adrenaline meter, go on an off-road adventure with Tread ‘n’ Trails. If weather permits, go on the UTV and hike adventure to Kirwin Ghost Town. You’ll climb from 5,000 feet to over 9,000 feet in elevation on existing gravel and dirt roads in the Shoshone National Forest.
Prospectors William Kirwin and Harry Adams found gold in the Wood River area in 1885. Kirwin was established in 1902. Between 1904 and 1906 more than 200 people lived in the bustling mining town with 38 buildings including a hotel, post office, stores and cabins. By 1907 most residents left Kirwin after a massive avalanche. Kirwin also has an interesting connection to aviation pioneer Amelia Earhart. In 1934, she commissioned a cabin to be built near Kirwin. It was never finished after she disappeared on her around-the-world flight. The unfinished cabin is one mile uphill from the Kirwin parking area.
The day I was supposed to go to Kirwin, Mother Nature unleashed a summer storm the night before and made the high mountain roads impassable. Instead, we went on an insanely muddy and fun off-roading experience closer to Cody. My guide Dalton was phenomenal especially when we switched seats and he instructed me on what to do as I drove one of the more gnarly sections. Our 5-hour adventure included a picnic lunch overlooking Diamond Basin followed by driving over for panoramic views of Oregon Basin and McCullough Peaks.
Drive Beartooth Scenic Byway
There’s an “All-American Road” close to Cody that takes you through spectacular scenery in Wyoming and Montana to the northeast entrance of Yellowstone National Park.
The 68-mile stretch of Beartooth Scenic Byway runs from Red Lodge, Montana to Cooke City and Silver Gate. Stop in Red Lodge to gas up and grab some snacks. If you’re there around lunchtime, Bogart’s is a great choice.
Beartooth is a highway to the sky with multiple hairpin turns and steep drop-offs in seven miles of switchbacks as you climb over 5,000 feet through the lodgepole pine forest up to the alpine tundra at Beartooth Pass Summit elevation of 10,947 feet. The views of the canyon, glacial cirques, alpine lakes and 20 peaks over 12,000 feet in elevation are jaw-dropping.
Keep an eye out for marmots and bighorn sheep as you get close to the summit. Weather and snow conditions permitting, you might catch some skiers and riders at Beartooth Basin Summer Ski Area. On the west side, plan to make lots of stops to enjoy the alpine lakes like Little Bear and Beartooth. There are multiple short hikes to stunning waterfalls like Lake Creek Falls and Crazy Creek Falls on your way to Cooke City, which was named after Northern Pacific Railway’s tycoon Jay Cooke.
Grab lunch on the deck at Beartooth Café then drive a few more miles west to Stop the Car Trading Post. Take it from this ice cream lover, their huckleberry ice cream is worth the drive.
From Cooke City to Yellowstone’s northeast entrance, you might spot fox, moose or other wildlife. You can either continue into the national park or drive back to Chief Joseph Scenic Byway for an outstanding scenic loop drive.
Where to Sleep, Sip, Shop, and Eat in Cody
Cody has a variety of accommodations for any budget.
For the history buff, the legacy of Buffalo Bill is still alive at the Irma Hotel. Named for his daughter, Buffalo Bill opened the hotel in 1902. It’s one of Wyoming’s most historic hotels and one of the most infamous hotels in the West. The historic rooms are popular, so book in advance. The crème-de-la-crème room is of course the Buffalo Bill Suite decked out in antique décor from the early 1900s with modern amenities. Don’t miss the cherrywood back bar in the dining room. Queen Victoria of England gave it to Buffalo Bill. The Irma Restaurant has a full menu including its legendary prime rib along with breakfast, lunch and dinner buffets if you’re more of a little bit of this and a little bit of that kind of person.
From the Irma, jump on a 1-hour Cody Trolley Tour. The 22-mile tour brings to life Cody’s wild past as guides share stories about Buffalo Bill, Annie Oakley and other colorful characters. Don’t miss the Cody Gunfight on the street in front of the Irma at 6 p.m., most nights from early June through late September. Root for the sheriff and the good guys or the outlaws in this entertaining and free performance complete with a horse-drawn stagecoach.
For a boutique hotel stay, Chamberlin Inn is just off Sheridan Avenue. The historic hotel opened as a boarding house in 1903. In the 1920s and 30s, it was popular with movie stars, politicians and authors like Ernest Hemingway. In 1932, Hemingway stayed at the Chamberlin after completing Death in the Afternoon. He mailed the draft to his publisher while on a fishing trip in Cody. Book the Hemingway King Studio Suite if you want to stay where Hemingway slept. Sip a “Death in the Afternoon” cocktail and nosh on flatbread in the delightful parlor, conservatory or lovely courtyard of the Chamberlin Cocktail Lounge for happy hour or enjoy a nightcap before retreating to your nicely appointed spacious room. With cabins, Holiday Inn, and Comfort Inn accommodations, Buffalo Bill Resort is a more affordable option and just a short walk from Cody’s vibrant historic district.
For your morning java jolt, grab a latte at Rawhide Coffee. The Western spin on Northern Italian-inspired cuisine makes Trailhead a surprising stop for lunch or dinner. Why go to just one brewery when you can sample several while experiencing Cody’s Sippin’ Trail. Start at Cody Craft Brewing. The brewery and family and dog-friendly taproom are owned by a delightful couple. Next, pop into Pat O’Hara Brewing Company for Irish and American-style brews and pub grub. It’s the first all-women-owned and operated brewery in Wyoming. Sign up for the Sippin’ Trail Drink Pass to win prizes for enjoying libations. Stroll along Sheridan Avenue and peruse some of the shops. Pop into Wyoming Buffalo Company for gourmet goodies and gifts made in the state.
Another shopping stop should be the Wild West Emporium inside the Irma Hotel. From t-shirts to handcrafted dazzling boots and jackets, it’s filled with authentic Western clothing and unique gifts. Sunlight Sports has you covered for any outdoor adventure needs. MTN GRL is a fun clothing and home décor boutique. For a romantic dinner, drive to Trail Shop Inn in the Wapiti Valley. It started as a stagecoach stop between Cody and Yellowstone in 1922. I highly recommend the rainbow trout. Save room for a sweet treat at the Bigg Chill. Cody’s uber popular ice shop has classic favorites, but be daring and go for one of their creative limited-edition flavors like Campfire Delight or the boozy Whiskey Peanut Butter Chip.
If you’d rather enjoy a liquid dessert, saunter into the Silver Saddle Saloon at the Irma Hotel for live music. It’s the perfect place to kick up your heels and toast to your adventures in Wyoming’s wildest town.
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