Morning
To explore Québec on your vacation, you should understand its geography. The city is divided into the historic section and the newer part outside the old town walls. The old section (Vieux-Québec) has two segments: Upper Town (Haute-Ville) extends up the hill from Place d'Armes and Dufferin Terrace to just past rue d'Auteuil, and Lower Town (Basse-Ville) below centers on Place-Royale at the foot of Cap Diamant.
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Begin in Basse-Ville at Place-Royale , 27 rue Notre-Dame, site of Samuel de Champlain's 1608 trading post and restored 17th- and 18th-century buildings surrounding the small cobblestone plaza. Facing the square is the 1688 Our Lady of Victories Church (Église Notre-Dame-des-Victoires), 32 rue Sous-le-Fort. Its name is derived from 1690 and 1711 French victories over the British. A trompe l'oeil mural covers one side of a five-story building adjacent to the church.
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Take a stroll through nearby Quartier Petit Champlain in Lower Town below Dufferin Terrace and bounded by boul. Champlain, rue du Petit-Champlain, rue Sous-le Fort and rue du Cul-de-Sac; you'll feel like you're in a quaint centuries-old French village. The narrow street, filled with charming galleries, bistros and boutiques, is especially magical in winter when the shops are bedecked in twinkling lights and the streets dusted with snow. It's one of the most fun things for couples to do.
It's a short walk to the Museum of Civilization (Musée de la civilisation), 85 rue Dalhousie. Though this architecturally striking building is contemporary in style, it blends seamlessly with its older neighbors. Exhibits examine the province's history, including the Québécois relationship with their land and the 11 First Nations tribes that call Québec home.
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When you're ready to head to Haute-Ville (your afternoon will be spent in Upper Town), you have two choices—walking up the steep Escalier Casse-Cou, or “Breakneck Stairs,” or riding up the embankment in the glass-enclosed funicular.
Afternoon
When you're looking for a place to eat, have a hearty Québécois lunch at Restaurant Aux Anciens Canadiens , 34 rue Saint-Louis, a charming eatery in a 1676 house. Servers in period clothing help guests select from a menu heavy with game. Don't skip the maple syrup pie garnished with whipped cream for dessert.
Walk through the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac , 1 rue des Carrières. The palatial 19th-century hotel has a commanding view of the river. Its turrets and verdigris copper roof are visible throughout the city.
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Facing the hotel is Dufferin Terrace (La terrasse Dufferin), 16 rue du Petit-Champlain, a broad wooden promenade. The boardwalk offers panoramic views of the river and is a favorite for leisurely strolls. In summer vendors and street performers add to the lively atmosphere.
The Citadel
The Citadel of Québec (La Citadelle de Québec), 1 Côte de la Citadelle, is adjacent. The star-shaped fort, begun following the War of 1812, is still an active garrison. A museum celebrates the history of the base's resident regiment, and in summer visitors can view the pageantry of the Changing of the Guard ceremony.
For shopping, check out the original artwork hung on the walls of pedestrian-only rue de Trésor. The narrow alleyway has been a favorite spot of local artists since the 1960s.
Evening
For the ultimate in gourmet Québec dining, choose Restaurant Laurie Raphaël , 117 rue Dalhousie; innovative dishes use only the freshest regional ingredients at this local restaurant. For down-home Québec classics, head to Le Cochon Dingue (The Crazy Pig), which has several locations.
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The Grande Allée, with its assortment of bars, nightclubs and sidewalk cafés, attracts a young crowd. For a quiet, romantic evening, ride in a calèche through Old World streets; horse-drawn carriages await near the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac and at Esplanade Park at rue d'Auteuil.