Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin (Basilica di Santa Maria in Cosmedin)

The Basics

While you may start at Bocca della Verità, go beyond the carved marble mask to discover the medieval church. The original eighth-century structure was built on the site of the great temple of Hercules, though some of its architecture was lost in renovations. Look up to see the tallest medieval bell tower in Rome, home to what many believe is the skull of Saint Valentine.

See Santa Maria di Cosmedin on a tour dedicated to exploring Catholic Rome, or as part of a walking, bike, Vespa, or vintage car tour of Rome's top attractions. Or, combine a visit with skip-the-line tickets for the nearby Colosseum and Vatican Museums.

Things to Know Before You Go

• You can view the mask from outside the church gates, but to take a picture with your hand in the Mouth of Truth, you have to wait in line to access the enclosed portico.

• If you are planning to tour the church interiors, wear modest clothing covering shoulders and knees.

• The Bocca della Verità is a fun stop for kids, and the church itself fascinating for history and architecture enthusiasts.

• The church portico and interiors are accessible to wheelchair users.

How to Get There

The Chiesa di Santa Maria in Cosmedin is along the Tiber River just across the Ponte Palatino bridge from the Trastevere neighborhood. A number of city buses from the Termini train station and across the city stop nearby.

When to Get There

The marble mask is only accessible when the Basilica of Santa Maria in Cosmedin is open. Get there first thing in the morning when the portico opens to avoid the long lines that form later in the day.

The Legend of the Bocca della Verità

According to legend, Bocca della Verità (likely a first-century drain cover from nearby Temple of Hercules Victor) will bite off the hand of anyone who tells a lie when their hand is inserted into the mask’s gaping mouth. Audiences were charmed by Audrey Hepburn’s reaction when Gregory Peck feigned having his hand devoured inThe Roman Holiday, and today visitors line up in droves to put the mask to the test.

Ways to explore

Like many visitors, you may want a picture with your hand in the Mouth of Truth (you’ll pay a small fee and wait in line to get one), but go beyond the carved marble mask to discover the medieval church’s interior. It’s not a regular stop on general sightseeing tours of Rome, even though it’s close to other attractions such as the Circus Maximus and Theater of Marcellus. Instead, you’ll have to come on your own, on a tour dedicated to exploring Catholic Rome, or on a private Vespa, golf cart, or vintage car tour of Rome’s top attractions.

Accessibility

The church is partially accessible to people using wheelchairs, with a small lip in the church and stairs leading down to the crypt.

Age limits

None

What to pack

Camera, coins for votive candles

What to wear

Modest clothing covering shoulders and knees

Not allowed

Phones inside the church.

Address

The Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin sits between the Circus Maximus and the Tiber River across the Ponte Palatino bridge. If you don’t walk from nearby attractions, take public transportation or a taxi.

Driving

Head to Piazza Venezia in the historical center and follow Via Luigi Petroselli to the church. Park at the Piazza della Bocca della Verità’s paid parking lot, near its entrance. The church is within the city’s Limited Traffic Zone (ZTL), which restricts unauthorized vehicles, including most private cars, during certain hours.

Public transportation

Take one of the many buses, some of which leave from Termini train station, to the Bocca Della Verita’ bus stop outside the church. Alternatively, ride Metro Line B to Circo Massimo and walk up.

Best times to visit

Get there first thing in the morning when the portico opens to avoid the long lines that form later in the day to see the Mouth of Truth.

Best days to visit

Aside from Sundays, when the basilica holds the Divine Liturgy, you can visit on any day.

Best months to visit

The church is busiest in summer; come in any other season for a quieter visit.

Special events

Expect the church to be busy or unavailable for tourist visits on religious holidays of the Latin Catholic Chuch.