One king can be thanked for the grand buildings, parks and art galleries of Madrid: Carlos III (1716-88). He opened the Parque del Retiro and its observatory and commissioned the building which now houses the Prado, the Real Jardín Botánico next door, and the elegant fountains along the paseos. The ordinary folk of the city also benefitted from a sewage and refuse system, as well as streets that were both paved and lit. No wonder he is remembered as the Rey-Alcalde (the King-Mayor) - perhaps the best mayor the city has ever had.

Every church and museum in Madrid worth its salt has a painting or fresco by Francisco José de Goya y Lucientes (1746-1828). A native of Aragón, his talent was soon recognised in Madrid. In 1792, a serious illness left him deaf and also gave a new, hard edge to his work. By 1799, he was court artist to Carlos IV, but his portraits of the royal family were never flattering. As he grew older, he painted his most haunting works. His record of the French massacres in Madrid on 2 and 3 May in 1808, and the despairing 'Black Pictures' are a highlight of the Prado.

When Alfonso XIII abdicat ed in 1931 in favour of the Republic, few believed that Spain would ever have a king again. However, when General Franco died in 1975, Spain reverted to a monarchy. Juan Carlos was born in exile in Rome in 1938. In 1981 his forceful intervention to prevent a military coup endeared him to the Spanish people who celebrated the royal jubilee in 2000 with heartfelt enthusiasm. In May 2004 there were further celebrations when Prince Felipe, eldest son of Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia, married former TV journalist, Letizia Ortiz.