This walk in downtown Pest serves as an introduction to the commercial and cultural heart of the city.

Start at Kossuth Lajos tér outside the magnificent Parliament. With your back to the Parliament, turn right down Nádor utca towards Szabadság tér, a hidden gem of the city.

At 8-9 is the stately bulk of the Hungarian National Bank. On the southwest corner towards the square is the figure of Hamlet holding poor Yorik's skull.

Return to Nádor utca and turn right towards József Attila utca. Before reaching it, turn right into Roosevelt tér.

At the northern end is the Hungarian Academy of Sciences, the first neo-Renaissance building in the city, built between 1862 and 1864. Also on the square is Gresham Palace, a richly ornate art-nouveau building.

Back on Nádor utca, turn right. You come to the intersection with József Attila utca, with its incessant flow of traffic. Cross it and head straight on to József nádor tér, once one of the most attractive squares in the city before the advent of the motor car.

Occupying the square is the Romantic-style Postabank Headquarters; Gross House, a neo-classical block of flats; and the Central European University, a classical chef-d'oeuvre.

Leave József nádor tér and make for Bécsi utca. Turn right, and walk down to Vörösmarty tér, a pleasant and restful square.

At No 7 is the famous Gerbeaud pastry shop - so stop for a snack.

Walk to the far side to Váci utca, the smartest shopping street in town. If you can resist the shops, continue under the subway towards the Central Market Hall on Vámház körùt.

The 19th-century Market Hall is a place to wander or have a snack or beer at one of the small upstairs bars.